I have to confess that I never thought I’d ever write a letter from Bethnal Green – because, prior to last month, I didn’t even really know where it was and the name had only been on the periphery of my consciousness, associated with inner city London, gangs and crime.
It didn’t seem to be a neighbourhood I’d stay in as a visitor to London even though I’d be considered a regular visitor. My usual haunts are the familiar zones – West End, Kensington, Chelsea, Knightsbridge – but lately, I’ve found myself going out of my comfort zone to try new neighbourhoods on my travels.
Interesting installations at Bethnal Green
I guess it’s a sign of my evolution as a traveller. As someone who travels a lot, you start to want new experiences wherever you go and as new tourism developments get built outside the main, traditional zones, you become emboldened to try these new precincts.
There’s a lot to be said thus for a new generation of hoteliers such as Loh Lik Peng (Unlisted Collection) – and last week, I met Penang hotelier Chris Ong (George Town Heritage + Hotels) – who choose to develop hotels not for location but for their story and heritage, and convert them into places you want to experience, regardless of location.
Street art at Broadway Market
As it turned out, I found out that Bethnal Green wasn’t as far as I had thought it would be – one train stop from Liverpool Street Station, three stops to St Paul’s, a few more stops to Tottenham Court and you’re in the West End – and the neighbourhood itself is actually very interesting with its continuing gentrification.
You can also jog to Victoria Park, a lovely park of the ilk that London is famous for, and there’s the V&A Museum of Childhood nearby.
I did an Alternative London Walking Tour of Spitalfields and Brick Lane – you know it’s going to be different and interesting when you’re told to meet by the “goat statute” in the square.
Standing tall – “goat statute” in the square
During the two-hour walking tour, I learnt the history of this interesting neighbourhood that’s a microcosm of the story of London immigration through the ages, starting with the French Huguenots in the 17th century, followed by the Irish and Jews, and, most recently, Bangladeshis.
There are so many curry houses in Banglatown that I thought I was back in Singapore’s Little India, with everyone claiming “we have the best curry”.
I know Brick Lane from the book by Monica Ali but to walk its streets and be told stories by a local artist brought it all alive. I like the way the street art is done here – very organic, extremely haphazard and at times illegal.
“It makes my work more interesting. We find new works of art almost everyday,” said our guide, pointing to a creation he said had not been there the day before.
The three-storey tall crane on Hanbury Street
One of the most famous and iconic pieces is the three-storey tall crane found on Hanbury Street, created by Belgian street artist ROA, but it’s the smaller, less obvious pieces that catch my eye – from sculptures to quotations, installations and sketches. It’s like the whole area is a blank canvas for any artist with an imagination.
Speciality store in Bethnal Green
If you’re into the macabre, there’s Whitechapel with its bloody Jack The Ripper history, and we’re pointed out the Ten Bells pub because one of the ladies working there fell victim to the serial killer.
After the tour, there’s the market to explore and you can spend another couple of hours browsing through all the different stores. Ironically, I ended up buying a handmade bag from a Japanese designer, who had moved from Tokyo to Brick Lane and decided to design her own handbags with materials imported from Japan.
This week I am in Sydney and staying at the Old Clare Hotel (also part of Unlisted Collection) in an area called Chippendale which up to six years ago was an area you were told to stay away from, but is now becoming the place to be. I look forward to discovering a new hood.
• Photos credit: Yeoh Siew Hoon
