In a world of bad news – terrorism in Tunisia, terrorism in Charleston, USA, economic disaster in Greece (déjà vu), the MERS scare – I am happy to bring you good news from Melbourne. The spirit of the independent is alive and well in this city which I was told repeatedly will become Australia’s most populous city in a decade or so because it is so darned, well, liveable.
There for three days when it wasn’t raining, and the weather was cold, crisp and sunny, you can understand why Melbourne has become Australia’s dream city to live in. In a world which has largely surrendered its Central Business Districts to big, global brands, the inner city of Melbourne is dotted with myriads of small businesses owned by passionate entrepreneurs and designers – from cafes to boutiques, book stores, art galleries and jewellery.
It’s a breath of fresh air for travellers always looking for that something different, something local – and to find it in a city centre, well, that’s a miracle these days.
Let me take you on a Hidden Secrets walking tour where, first, I met a woman who has the distinction of running “the smallest café in Melbourne”. Called “Local Birds”, it’s essentially just a bar counter and a tiny space in which the owner bakes her own brownies which smelt divine.
Freshly baked brownies from Local Birds.
Then, I peeked into “the smallest bar in Melbourne” – it’s called Bar Americano run by two Europeans who want to bring the era of classic European cocktails to Melbourne. It has standing room for 10 only at any one time – and you only know it’s there by the queues of people waiting to get in.
Standing room only for 10 at Bar Americano
Then there’s the clever entrepreneur who turned a garbage alley into the hottest place serving Cubano sandwiches by hanging up a few colourful lamps, setting out tables and creating a mood that makes you feel you’re in Little Havana. He calls it Chuckle and I certainly hope he’s chuckling all the way to the bank.
Chuckle – turning a garbage alley into a hipster bar
The woman behind Hidden Secrets is herself an entrepreneur. I first met Fiona Sweetman when she was first starting out, having given up making wedding dresses for walking tours. At that time, she wasn’t sure how her tours would catch on but 11 years on, she now does 24 tours a week and employs six full-time guides.
When she started, the majority of her customers (90%) were Victorians wanting to discover their own city. Today, that’s down to 60% and the rest come from Europe and other Western countries. For the life of her, she says she hasn’t been able to crack the Asian market – and I too have to wonder why – because I can see many of my compatriots from Singapore, Malaysia, Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong going on her tours and enjoying it. She shows you a world of hidden secrets and, depending on your interests, customises them.
I was introduced to Melbourne’s first escalator and first bank – the Commonwealth Bank of Australia – whose elegant foyer is open to the public.
The foyer of the Commonwealth Bank of Australia built in 1889
I was shown street art that’s popped up everywhere, including this one by Rone. I was told the story of the London Plane Tree – brought in by the British – which are being injected with hormones to stop them over-producing seed pods because hay fever is a major complaint in the city.
Street art by Roan next to the hormone-injected London Plane Tree
There’s a children’s book store that’s been there 30 years, a shop selling local Limited Print Edition prints, and Clementine’s which only sells local produce (rooftop honey is the new sensation). I compared this experience to Cardiff where I was earlier this year and where the old arcades are now filled with same-old, same-old global brands and small businesses have shut down.
A children’s book store that hasn’t gone the way of the dinosaur
Then of course there are the restaurants – in Melbourne, there’s always some new place that’s THE one to eat at. I tried Cumulus, by Andrew McConnell who also runs Moon Under Water and Supernormal. I also gave Lupino a go – love the open kitchen and dining counter.
I was told there are more than 3,000 eateries alone in the small city block and you do wonder how they survive, but somehow they do. Of course, there is high churn but that’s good if the old makes way for something new and fresh – and independent.
There are various government schemes to support independent businesses and social enterprise is the new buzzword, with lots of young entrepreneurs linking their start-ups with a social cause. But I reckon it takes more than government funding and support to create a lively, dynamic and organic city of diverse character, where old sits alongside new and where global does not over-run local but respects it.
It takes a community willing to fight for it, and support it. “We are a strange lot,” said Sweetman. “We like to support the underdog.” And their artists – like this mural which is dedicated to the memory of local jazz songbird, Chrissy Amphlett.
Street art dedicated to jazz singer Chrissy Amphlett who died in 2013
And so it will be interesting to see how the test case against Uber will play out in Melbourne. The problem is not as severe as in Paris but Uber is also facing a challenge in this city.
The city’s taxis are also against it. “It isn’t fair, they don’t pay taxes like we do,” said the taxi driver who took me to the airport.
Uber drivers are being fined and Uber’s stepped in to pay the fines. The Taxi Services Commission sent Uber a “cease-and-desist” letter last year and a test case is currently before Victorian courts.”
Several of my Melburnian friends tell me they won’t use Uber out of principle. And remember, this is the city that is very proud of how they fought off “Starbuckisation”. Checking on the Starbucks Australia locator map, I found just three outlets in Melbourne even though my local friends are convinced there are none. Wishing is believing, I suppose.
Let’s see if this city of the independents can fend off “Uberisation” as well.
