The Millennial Traveller: How a heritage race opened my eyes to Kuching
02/02/2016 by WiT

In an industry where government tourism boards relentlessly invoke buzzwords and catch phrases to generate publicity, it becomes easy to build a certain level of cynicism (or perhaps ‘scepticism’ is a better word) about the strategies used to attract visitors to target destinations.

There is an inherent artificiality or insincerity to it, where it simply feels like a PR stunt rather than an honest-to-God expression of pride in a place. In an odd sort of way and somewhat ironically, this can generate levels of appeal for places whose reputation rests solely on word-of-mouth recommendations and social networking rather than expensive campaigns.

The team with Jason Brooke (standing right), grandson of Sarawak’s last ruling Rajah Muda, at the Brooke Memorial.

The team with Jason Brooke (standing right), grandson of Sarawak’s last ruling Rajah Muda, at the Brooke Memorial.

I must admit that a month ago, Kuching, Sarawak, was not a ‘must see’ destination on my own globetrotting agenda. When I hear “Malaysia”, I (and many others, I suspect) typically think of Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Malacca, and if you’re in Singapore, Johor Bahru for the cheap shopping just across the causeway, of course!

In all frankness, the notion of visiting had not crossed my mind until I found that it was the destination for the fourth Heritage Race.

The race itself is a relatively straightforward affair, where teams of two to eight are required to race around an area (in this case, Kuching), and undertake challenges at various heritage sites, learn about traditional ways, and document progress with a selfie or a simple chop on a race card (or ‘passport’ as it was called).

Kueh Seng Onn Temple, one of the stops of the race.

Kueh Seng Onn Temple, one of the stops of the race.

Certainly none too taxing and a far cry from the aggressively competitive road races that are so commonplace in many major cities. Like an intense day tour with an added dose of adrenaline, it’s definitely an extremely ‘efficient’ way to explore a city, all the while raising money for significant causes.

As it turns out, Kuching can be regarded as a hidden and largely unknown treasure – the type of place reserved for people ‘in the know’.

While my father and I had flown from Singapore (a remarkably painless 90 minute flight on AirAsia), many of the other participants in the Kuching Heritage Race turned out to be from the town itself.

While they definitely had the upper hand in being able to navigate between the different historical and cultural hotspots and completing the various challenges, we simply could not compete with their sheer enthusiasm and passion for their hometown either.

It was almost as though the Kuching Heritage Race gave them the opportunity to see their hometown with fresh eyes, reminding them of a beauty so many of us take for granted when in familiar territory. The perks of also raising funds for charities and supporting local businesses just added to their fervour.

While perhaps an idealistic way of looking at it, quick post-race interviews revealed that this observation wasn’t too far off. When asked where the participants would like to see the Heritage Race hosted next, adults and kids were both keen to see it in Kuching again. It is a stark contrast to so many other places in the world where many love to grumble about the ‘sad state of affairs’, or the ‘loss of respect for tradition’.

Marissa (standing 2nd left) in an Iban traditional dress.

Marissa (standing 2nd left) in an Iban traditional dress.

Instead we found people with an overwhelming desire to share dimensions of their culture with anyone willing to take the time to look properly and see their hometown through their eyes.

Despite the town clearly undergoing its own small wave of restrained modernisation, there is an undeniable clinging to old traditions and architecture. There is an infectious enthusiasm for keeping the customs of their culture alive and thriving, instead of reserving their appreciation for occasional bouts of nostalgia.

In a way, for the locals at least, it is the antithesis of ‘wanderlust’, trading the undying desire to see what the world is like beyond your doorstep to simply celebrating and rejoicing in their own heritage. For us as visitors however, it was a refreshing opportunity to see exactly where a community’s pride lies and to share it.

While so many modern cities like Singapore rave about ‘restoring local heritage’ so clearly lost after their unwavering quests for modernity at almost any price, Kuching has done one better by never letting it go in the first place.

The Kuching Heritage Race briefly but gloriously shone a light on a better way of doing things and is heartily recommended for those of a curious and open-minded disposition.

Images credit (including feature photo of Harmony Arch): Marissa Trew

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