I hardly recognise Kota Kinabalu (KK) these days. It’s been just over a year since I’ve visited this East Malaysian state on the island of Borneo, and the developments blew me away.
KK is an example of a destination transformed by low cost airlines and the rise of the middle class traveller across Asia. Low cost flights from China, South Korea, Taiwan and South-east Asia have made it accessible and affordable to masses of aspiring travellers.
The biggest change is in the range of accommodation. Where before a handful of upscale resorts dominated the market, the last few years have seen an explosion in budget and mid-scale properties, all independently-owned, to cater to the value-seeking Asian traveller.
The majestic Mount Kinabalu, an icon of Sabah
Driving along the waterfront and within the old city area, I lost count of the new budget hotels that have opened just in the last year.
More global brands are also entering the market – a big Hilton sign heralds the chain’s imminent opening in the downtown area and Accor’s Mercure is also set to open shortly.
Where before the chief attractions of KK were limited to the beaches, islands and nature (climbing Mt Kinabalu is still a big drawcard), urban tourism is now in full swing in KK as travellers from Asia seek out shopping and eating as their main pursuits.
Food is a big draw in both cities like the Sabah pan mee (left) and Nonya laksa lemak from Penang
Brand new shopping malls, restaurants, cafes and bars have opened, catering to these new consumers. Retail brands like Uniqlo and Sephora are now present. To locals, this means their city has arrived; to others, it makes KK seem just like any other city in Asia.
From KK, I took an AirAsia flight to Penang where the same phenomenon is happening. Within the Georgetown heritage zone tourists are now spoilt for choice when it comes to lodging – whether it be in hostels, backpackers’ inns, boutique hotels, international branded properties.
Fuelled by low cost airlines and word-of-mouth social media, Penang has become one of the hottest new destinations in Asia. CNN ranked it its second top destination for 2017 and called it “one of the best street food destinations”.
A new type of accommodation is also emerging – that of shophouse residences. Chris Ong, of George Town Heritage + Hotels, has just finished his second residence, 56 Muntri Street.
Living room of one of the bedrooms at 56, Muntri Street
Encouraged by the success of his first at 64, Muntri Street where he said “I met a market demand by accident”, he’s converted another shophouse to cater to the multi-generational family market in Asia – the ones that favour private/alternative accommodation to traditional hotels.
You can rent the entire house with four bedrooms for RM2,500 (US$563) a night, a steal really, given you get 5,000 square feet of space. You can also rent the bedrooms individually and all guests then have access to the communal living area.
The Z bed at 56, Muntri Street
The 180-year-old shophouse is full of history and Ong has put his signature touches, preserving the integrity of the shophouse experience while adding contemporary and modern touches.
My favourite feature is the Z bed, specially designed by Ong, which is basically two beds joined together but with a screen separating them. “The Asian market loves moving together and they want to be together. They like communal spaces yet they want privacy. I had to create lots of different screens. The thinking is, we don’t mind hearing it, just don’t want to see it,” he laughed.
As I walked through the house, and up and down the stairs, I was impressed by the generosity of space and the sense of place.
This is the new luxury – space, communality, privacy, authenticity – at value prices, and new players are meeting this demand not just in KK and Penang, but also across Asia.
I love this brave new world of hospitality we are entering.
• Featured image (Kota Kinabalu at sunset) credit: Ramdan_Nain/iStock; all other photos courtesy of Yeoh Siew Hoon
