First inspired by a news story on “Joyful Trains” of Japan, Timothy O’Neil-Dunne takes the opportunity of WiT Japan & North Asia happening July 5-6 to travel two weeks around the country. Here’s an account of his experience around the themes of anime, cinema, tourism and food, as well as some tips for the traveller who wants to go deeper into Japan.
In preparation for WIT Japan & North Asia, which coincided nicely with some down time for me, I set off with a family member for a two-week jaunt around Japan to experience its sights, sounds, people, way of life, its many cultures but most importantly its food!
Planning is something I tend to do. I like the idea of being aware but not necessarily micro-managing (or managed). I love the serendipity of travel, the surprises that one gets along the way.
Amazing Sushi
The planning for this trip started back in February. The original inspiration was a BBC piece on Joyful Trains. https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20230104-japans-beloved-slow-motion-train That sparked a search, and I ended up deep in the differences of Japan and my usual places to visit.
To be clear, I had visited Tokyo multiple times starting in 1997 when we were building out Expedia. I have been to Kamakura during its Spring Festival which is sheer delight, but that was a train ride on an off day.
Eventually we alighted on a tour that will eventually span four weeks. Three in the land of the rising sun and one week in Korea. The cultural themes were food (obviously) Anime, Cinema, Tourism and, did I say, food? We wanted to enjoy the country but as visitors we cannot expect to appreciate the full experience.
Our itinerary was: three days Sapporo; five days Tokyo; three days Okinawa and three days Kobe.
These included visits to fish markets, side trips to small islands, visits to shrines, and some incredible shopping experiences. We had some quiet days and we found intimate bars and restaurants.
For food we had one rule, we avoided anywhere we saw a western face. Serious eaters (not those engrossed in their phones) was the criteria with a little help from some friends and guides. (Thank you Google Translate). In two weeks not one bad meal and frankly no two of them alike. On the last night, live abalone was the real delicacy. Sake ice cream, and so many different flavours and types of sake. All too many to mention.
My takeaways:
Japan is so wonderful, full with rich history. Some westerners might like to lump China and Japan into one sense of Asia. They are not. Japan is like a gentle breeze. The cultural difference amongst its tightly packed country is startling and delightful. Only scratching the surface is to miss so much richness.
Tokyo TV Tower
I would love to spend a year maybe longer. Perhaps one day. But let me provide some context for new(ish) visitors to Japan. Get out of Tokyo. Pick a theme or subject type you are interested in and pursue it relentlessly.
My travelling companion was deep into Anime and Manga. The video games and the characters are centered around many universes. It is bewildering! But so rich – from the Ghibli Museum in Tokyo to NIGOD in Awari island (all about Godzilla) to the products you can buy, it really is a trip. Rummaging around in retro shops shows how valuable some of these things can be.
Bandai Gundam Store
To consider Japan in its own terms, to be thankful for so many things. Clean and safe would be amongst the top considerations for travelers. Respectful and while anxious to be helpful, careful to avoid the possibility of confrontation or displeasure, the Japanese are masterful at being nice.
The inhabitants have two styles. Monochrome and stylish. Monochrome is for workday attire. Stylish can be for many at any time, but the evenings and weekends is when they shine. Cosplay costumes are just for specific – they are quite normal day attire particularly for the younger. There is far less selfishness on the display. And when not – it is usually the unfamiliarity with the local customs that is the seeming cause.
So here are some tips.
- Stay longer than 10 days. Remember if you are coming from the Americas, you lose a day coming out but gain going back.
- Avoid bringing your water bottles with you – you’ll miss out on the joy of using a vending machine. Get lots of coins. It’s quite surprising how Japan is still using large amounts of coins.
Capsules everywhere only 300-500 yen
Sign up for Line (local social media champion), paypay payment if you can. Avoid using debit cards, but American Express is pretty much accepted everywhere as are the usual suspects.
- For getting around pay attention. Almost everything is said in Japanese – you have to be patient. Learn the system (YouTube has scads of the best way to ride buses and metro subways). Trains are just great. Taxis are meticulously clean (note the use of white gloves). But if you want to use Japanese local taxi app “Go”, you will be lost unless you have a local Japanese number. Find a translation app that you like and learn to use it. Many Japanese who work in the service industry use them.
- Please go back to the one piece of advice. Get out of Tokyo. Pace yourself, take rest days. There are so many places to enjoy peace and quiet. Japan is an incredible place for people watching. It has so much to teach the rest of the world. As they emerge slower than the rest of us from the pandemic, be respectful that many Japanese remain very nervous about the impacts of Covid.
Godzilla on my a**!
